04. Exploring Belgrade

Kicking off the trip was a jam packed day on foot exploring Belgrade. The city is divided quite literally by the Dunav river as well as conceptually into new and old. My hotel is along the river in Novi Beograd (New Belgrade) where new buildings are being erected in between the complex streetscape of huge apartment buildings called bloks. The concept of these apartment buildings was very socialist- to provide space and amenities for everyone to share for both live and work. Simple and usually effective. Green spaces, daycares and schools, large community kitchens all provided within the main structure so families and neighbors can flourish in their direct locale. Now a days, the largest problem with the bloks is their maintenance as well as parking. When designed- public transport was much more effective and the city was not as single owner or car-centric. In the age of individual ownership and consumerism- parking near your residence is almost impossible. The older part of Belgrade features really sweet and quaint cobbled streets turned into pedestrian paths flanked by rich and varying styles of architecture. Roman ruins, various monuments, Turkish carvings, and more populate the squares in old Belgrade with plenty of things for tourists to see- but also a subtle and lovely backdrop for shop and restaurant owners to feature their goods and services. Starting out in the university square, traversing old fortresses, exploring abandoned factories, and ending at an iconic brutalist tower: I witnessed a mash up of modern, neo classical, baroque, brutalist and ottoman architecture and placemaking. The rich palette of architectural materials and textures makes for a very visually stimulating experience and dynamic layering of spaces throughout the city. The very apparent mixture of styles and influences exhibits and also confirms the woven tapestry that is modern Serbia. Not its own thing but not too unlike the others- this country leaves me in awe. I already can’t wait to come back some day!! Oh wait - I’ll be back in 10 days for just one more day before flying home. Hopefully I can squeeze in the gorgeous modern art museum and the giant government building called Palace of Serbia (on account of its size)